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Where the Pacific Meets Power

If the stories of the veteran crew were to be believed, Cabo was supposed to be the highlight of our itinerary. It is the most exclusive resort in all of Mexico, a place of immense national pride. Even global superstars from every walk of life are regulars here. Rumors abounded about villas owned by Madonna and Sylvester Stallone—two absolute icons, by any measure. Whether there was any truth to these rumors, I never found out. But even if they weren’t there, Cabo’s appearance alone confirmed every whisper of its reputation.

Upon our very approach, we could see this was something entirely different from anything else we had witnessed in Mexico so far. This is a world-renowned holiday destination, famous primarily for its incredibly rich marine life and the abundance of diverse species that thrive there. Consequently, scuba diving is a highly developed branch of tourism here, offering a truly exclusive ticket into a completely different world. The other defining landmark of this place is the massive rock formation in the shape of an arch—El Arco—which stands as one of the trademarks of all Mexico.

Situated at the very tip of the Baja California peninsula, Cabo is dominated by a rugged, rocky landscape. Yet, this harsh terrain only added to the exclusivity and aesthetic of the place. This was not some haphazardly assembled settlement, of which Central America has plenty. From a distance, we could see well-maintained villas, a pristine coastline, and a distinct lack of the “ordinary” shacks and dilapidated houses that dominate most Mexican ports. The shanties and slums were likely hidden somewhere in the distance, out of sight.

At first glance, everything here screamed cosmopolitan luxury; it exuded a certain glamour. Perhaps the biggest contributor to this impression was the immaculate marina, visible just before we stopped. Manicured marinas are usually a hallmark of the United States, certainly not Mexico. Yet this one could rival the best American harbors in terms of luxury and the yachts moored within.

The approach by ship promised so much. Unfortunately, the approach was practically the only thing we, with our massive vessel, could actually do.

Because of the marina layout, our sheer size, and the uncharacteristic rocky seabed, Cabo does not have a “parking spot”—or berth—large enough for cruise ships. This meant we were forced to perform the infamous tender operation. It is something nobody likes, but there was no other option. Sometimes, this necessity would come back to bite us hard. On a few occasions, we even had to cancel our stop entirely.

Cabo is unique, and the threat of an aborted landing is constant. As I mentioned, it sits at the very end of the peninsula, on a jagged spit of land. It is the place where the Pacific Ocean lashes against one side, while the Sea of Cortez laps against the other. This specific geographical position creates a collision of currents from these two vast bodies of water. The result is that Cabo is plagued by frequent, almost constant swells that can be seen churning in every direction.

The beaches here almost always fly red flags, warning of nature’s power. Although I am a very solid swimmer, my experience in Belize taught me to be maximally cautious and to respect those signs. The sheer force of the water mass I felt there, in what was essentially a stream, cannot compare to the waves visible here every time we approach the coast. Even though we anchor on the side sheltered by the land, the strength of the current always reminds us of where we truly are. Smooth stops were a rarity here. There were always significant issues with the swell tossing our tender boats in all directions. Even our ship, weighing in at 140,000 tons, sometimes had to retreat before the might of nature.

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